Pen-y-ghent and Whernside

Our 3 peaks challenge is at the end of June, so we thought it would be a good idea to buy the official guidebook and make sure that the routes we have been following so far have been correct.

We thought that today we would do the Pen-y-ghent section of the route. I went into the cafe and had a massive dilema with all of the books and maps that they had about the walk. So we set off up Pen-y-ghent (the book confirmed that the way we had been previously was correct.) We whizzed passed everybody going up the hill as I think that our training in the Lake District had made our fitness improve a great deal. We were at the top within an hour and then set off back down again.

We were hoping that the book would take us a different way through the bog but unfortunately it didn't!!! But we found a less boggy part and made our way across the numerous fields and bogs towards the final farm and the road.

When we reached the road, we were both feeling so good that we decided to do the next section of Whernside. (again the book confirmed that the way that we had been previously was the correct way). So we stopped at the burger van on the road side to buy a couple of cans of Coke as we didn't have enough liquid and sugar to keep us going for a walk this long. We set off up Whernside and again we just felt on top form and very fit. We managed to keep going without stopping for any rests at all.

When we reached the summit of Whernside it was quite cold and windy so we didn't hang about we just wanted to get down and on our way. Unfortunately Niki's knee condition means that decents really hurt her and Whernside is particularly bad for her because it is very steep and it is in step format.

We made it down and headed back towards the road. We realised that on the road we had about another 8 miles to go. We started worrying about the amount of daylight we had left so we kept going at a quick pace.

The last 3 or 4 miles were absolute agony, we were really tired and I thought Niki wasn't going to make it as her knees were really bothering her. But we got back eventually for about 8.30 (Just before darkness). When we got home we just ate and went straight to bed.

21 miles!!!!!

Longlands Fell, Brae Fell, Great Sca Fell, Meal Fell, Great Cockup and Knott

When we set off this morning the mist looked like it might clear. We could just see Longlands Fell as we walked around the bottom of it and we could also see Brae Fell at the other side of the valley. But when we got to the top of Longlands we couldn’t really see much else, so we didn’t stick around for very long. We made our way back down and along to the head of the valley, then started to climb upwards, when we got to the top we were only a stones throw away from Great Sca Fell but we tracked back a little to get to the summit of Brae Fell. Again we couldn’t see a great deal so we continued on along the top to what we thought was Great Sca Fell, but it was in fact Little Sca Fell. So we headed upwards again until we got to the actual summit.

Here was a lovely place to sit and eat our sandwiches even though we couldn’t really see very much. Another couple appeared on the top from what appeared to be the direction of Meal Fell and they said that it was a very visible path and quite easy to achieve. So after we’d finished our sandwiches we headed in that direction. On our way over to Meal Fell the cloud lifted slightly and we could see the fells all around us for the first time all day. Once we reached the top we thought it looked quite achievable to head for Great Cockup (although it looked like a very steep down and up), so off we went.

We had estimated that it would take us about 45 minutes to get to the top of Great Cockup, but it was actually easier than it appeared and we had gone there and back in 30 minutes. On our way back the cloud descended again and unfortunately to get to Knott, (which was the next summit we were aiming for) we had to go back to the top of Meal Fell, then back to the top of Great Sca Fell. When we actually got there I thought I was going to have a heart attack, I was absolutely knackered. But we just had to get to Knott then we were going to head back to the car.

Knott is the highest Fell that we climbed today and as we approached, we started to walk out and above the cloud. It was amazing to look back and see a blanket of cloud behind us (that we had been walking about in for most of the day). At the top of Knott we could see Skiddaw, Blencathra and Great Calva really clearly. In fact the cloud only seemed to be in the valley that we had been in. After a little break to eat an apple we headed back over to Great Sca Fell and then back down through the valley to our car.

We really wanted to attempt Bakestall and Great Calva but we didn’t think we had the light to do it safely (plus all this cloud can be quite disorientating). So we headed back to our little cottage. The man who owns the cottage told us that Keswick had been baking in sunshine all day………….typical.

On the plus side, we’ve booked to come back to our cottage in the middle of June. Can’t wait!

Longscale Fell, Carrock Fell, High Pike and Binsey

Today was a day when we decided that we would get up and away in good time (to avoid the road closure between Bassenthwaite and Keswick).

So we got away in good time and parked up near Ormathwaite to climb Longscale Fell. We set off up the main path to the top of Skiddaw from Keswick. The weather was absolutely glorious, a real sunny, dry, clear, spring morning. We had a little chat with a man who was going to the top with a quad bike and some fence posts. As always the path seemed as steep as ever and we stopped for a few little breathers.

We were supposed to be looking for a smaller footpath off to the right but completely missed it. Before we knew it we were at Jenkin Hill on the way to Skiddaw Little Man. We cut across right here and saw the man building his fence, bless him he must have been lonely as he wanted to stop and talk to us for ages. He even offered us a job for £80 a day, he said he just couldn’t get anybody to work for him for any prolonged period of time. Anyway we set off in the direction of Longscale and soon made it to the summit. Not a very impressive summit I must admit, a few loose stones thrown together to make a cairn and that was about it.

We headed back down (on the right path this time) and got back to the car. We then headed in the car over to Mosedale to climb Carrock Fell. After a pretty little drive we made it there and got ready for our next adventure of the day.

We followed a cart track that was supposed to take us to the top but it seemed to be going in the wrong direction. Niki picked out a path on the ground that she could see snaking up to the top so we decided to ditch the cart track and take this route instead. It was a very long, hard climb up, very draining on the legs. Every time I thought we were nearly at the top another bit would appear out of nowhere. After a while we reached a craggier bit and we could see the cairn at the top. When we got there I was very impressed by the summit, one of the best so far, very craggy, a fantastic cairn and fantastic views all around.

We then headed over to High Pike, this wasn’t too hard at all, not any real ascent or descent just quite boggy and marshy. On our way over we spotted the main path that we should have come up to Carrock Fell on and decided we would take this route down. We soon got to High Pike and on the summit we stopped for a packet of Mini Cheddars and Molly had half a Jumbone for her lunch.

We then headed down the main path to make our way back to the car. On our way down we decided that it would also be nice to finish the day off by visiting Binsey which is a very small fell that was pretty much on our way home.

So we jumped back in the car and drove down some more very quiet, pretty roads until we reached Binsey. It probably only took us about 20 minutes to get to the top and when we got there we were rewarded with beautiful views of the Skiddaw group. Unfortunately the sky was quite hazy so we couldn’t really make out much else in the mountain ranges further south but you could just make out the large shapes in the haze. After catching our breath, we had a leisurely walk back down to the car. Fab day !!!!

Buttermere Lake

We woke up this morning and Niki’s knee was really hurting her. We had contemplated doing Binsey (very small), but I suggested we have a complete rest from any sort of hill at all.

I was reading the guest book for our little cottage and a few people had written that Carol and Mike, (who own the cottage) had suggested to them, to walk around Buttermere. The people who had done this had thoroughly enjoyed it.

So we decided that is what we would do. We drove through Keswick and Borrowdale and the views were absolutely amazing. When we eventually reached the Honister Pass towards Buttermere we were absolutely blown away by its beauty. I thought the Northern Lakes were amazing but this was beauty beyond words. The road snakes backwards and forwards between high fells on either side of the road with a gradient of 1 in 4.

When you eventually reach Buttermere Lake, it’s like something out of a picture postcard. We were lucky enough to have clear blue skies so the mountains were reflecting in the lake…….absolute heaven.

We parked up in Buttermere and walked back towards the lake. There is a footpath that completely circles the lake so it’s very easy to take a walk around with no real need for a map.

Haystacks sits in the background of this scene looking all craggy and handsome. This is where A Wainwright asked for his ashes to be scattered and I can see why. It is the most beautiful place I have ever seen.

We had a very gentle stroll around the lake, stopping at regular intervals to throw stones in for Molly to retrieve (although she never brings back the same stone that we threw). She just looked like she was having so much fun, and everybody that passed us commented on how happy and content she seemed.

After our walk around the lake, we decided to stop at a pub in Buttermere for a pint of Guinness. So, the three of us sat on the grass bank enjoying our beer. Then we headed back in the car along the beautiful Honister Pass stopping every now and then to take some pictures.

We stopped in Keswick to buy some nibbles, then came back to our cottage and sat in the garden with a couple of beers to finish off a perfect day.

Blencathra

It’s been a bit of a strange day today. It started when we were getting ready and Niki was putting Molly in the car. A car pulled up with some Irish people in it, they were asking for directions as the road between Bassenthwaite and Keswick was closed for road works. We’d seen the sign for a couple of days but it was actually closed today. It was a bit of a pain as we needed some plasters and some innersoles for Niki from Keswick.

So I took us on a route around the back of Skiddaw and Blencathra. I thought it would only take 20 minutes but it took an hour, so I was really annoyed with myself as I felt that we’d wasted valuable time. Then when we got to Keswick Niki went to get her insoles whilst I waited in the car with Molly. But apparently no shops had these “shock absorber” insoles in a small, so she had to do a tour of Keswick and she finally found some in Blacks.

Our plan was to do Blencathra and Longscale Fell today, but we didn’t leave the car for Blencathra until about 12.30. But anyway we set of from the car park in Threlkeld and realised that we’d already added 2 miles to our journey because when we got to the base of Blencathra there was another car park there!! Oh well we started to make our way up via Blease Fell and it was quite tiring and steep. But we’d chosen this way up in particular because it seemed to be one of the safest!! Blencathra is known as a mountaineers mountain, with lots of steep edges and ridges to climb up. But as we’re not that experienced we thought we’d play it safe.

The climb up Blease Fell just seemed never ending and all of the people we saw were walking downwards which is quite demoralising. We eventually made the top of this steep climb and from here we could see all along the ridge path to the summit of Blencathra. To be honest this part of the route was the easiest bit, not too many ups and lots of flat bits under foot to catch your breath from that massive climb up.

As we were walking along the ridge path you could see down the south side of the mountain and you could make out all of the paths that may need a little more skill to get up!! My god, we’ll save that for a future date………too scary for my liking.

When we actually got to the summit we were the only ones there, which is always nice. The views were magnificent with a good 360 degree view all around us, in fact a better view than Skiddaw. We’ve had a really clear day with the weather as well so we really could see the Lake District in it’s full glory from the top. We could even see the sea on the west coast.

On our way day Niki’s legs really started to hurt her. Also time was ticking on so we decided not to bother with Longscale Fell today……..maybe another day when Niki’s leg wasn’t hurting and we had more light left.
Anyway it’s Paddy’s day, so we’ve got to get home in time to get a shower and ready to get to the pub for a nice meal and a pint of Guinness.

Souther Fell, Bannerdale Crags, Mungrisdale Common and Bowscale Fell

First thing this morning we went to Keswick to get me some insoles for my new boots and Niki some walking poles to see if it helps her knee problem.

After our trip to Keswick, the three of us made our way over to Mungrisdale village to park up ready for our walk.

We set off heading up Souther Fell, which was relatively easy walking but not very fantastic in terms of the scenery. However, when we got to the top we could see Blencathra and Bannerdale Crags and the views were amazing. At this point in time we could have headed back down the way we came and then picked up the second path to Bannerdale Crags, but we decided to see if we could make our own way down the West side of Souther Fell and try and cut some distance off our journey. I don’t think we estimated how steep and long the descent would be, but it was worth it when we got to the bottom.

We then picked up the main path and worked our way up, and around the top of the basin of Bannerdale Crags, from here we could see how dramatic our descent of Souther Fell had actually been. The view of Blencathra and the infamous Sharp Edge was also in very clear view.

From here we made our way over to Mungrisdale common and to be honest I wish we hadn’t bothered!!! It was a really tiring walk through tundra ground and when we got there it was just a biggish hill. Nothing very spectacular but at least we’d managed to incorporate it in this walk, rather than making a special journey to see it.

From here we headed over to Bowscale fell. The summit was already in view and by this point we were both feeling really weary. My feet had also started to hurt in my new boots, but at least the last summit was in sight and then it was downhill all the way to the car. It didn’t really take us very long to get to the summit and from here we could see each of the other fells that we had conquered today.

We then made our way slowly and wearily back to the car. Molly was looking really dirty and I was starting to worry about the cream carpets in our cottage! But luckily there was a stream right next to our car and so a quick game of throwing stones in here for her, meant she was as clean as a whistle.
And, another plus point. Niki’s knees hadn’t bothered her all day. It seemed that the walking poles worked!!

Carl Side and Skiddaw

We decided that I should get some new walking boots and Niki needed another base layer and a pair of walking trousers. So we went into Keswick shopping this morning. I found a nice new pair of Scarpa boots and Niki got a base layer and a lightweight jacket. It was a bit of a nuisance that on a Sunday some shops don’t open until 11am so we didn’t leave Keswick until about 12.

We came back to our little cottage and got some lunch and decided that we would attempt Skiddaw (again!!!).

We drove to Milbeck and parked the car up. The path to Skiddaw was well signed and it was very obvious on the ground which was the correct way. The climbing was very steep and we took lots of rest stops on the way up to Carl Side. We were also being constantly fooled into thinking we were near to the top of Carl Side. When we though we were nearly there and every time we got to the top, another climb appeared from behind the top. The weather was beautiful, in fact I even got down to my short sleeved base layer because the climbing was making me too hot. We eventually made the summit of Carl Side and looked at the ominous looking Skiddaw.

The path to Skiddaw looked treacherous, it goes straight up through some very loose looking scree out of sight to the top. We were both very nervous about taking this path, in fact I wished that we’d taken the main route to the top from Keswick via Skiddaw Little Man but we were here now. My mind was also put at rest by the fact that a few other people seemed to be taking this route. Our main concern though was Niki who is very scarred of heights and I think she was doubting that she could do it.

We set off up the scree and we both just got our head down and put one foot in front of the other. Molly on the other hand seemed to run up the mountain and was wondering what was taking her mummies so long! It is a very long, very steep (very steep) path, but we eventually got to the top.

Once we got to the top the wind got up and we just had to make a 500 metre walk along the top to the true summit. It was amazing up there and this is something that I had wanted to do for years. The weather had never been quite right or something had always got in the way………….but today………….WE DID IT!!!

We had to get back down the scree and Niki decided that she would prefer to go down on her bum, which she did most of the way. Then it was just a case of a gentle stroll back down from Carl Side to Milbeck.
What an amazing day, beautiful weather and I finally achieved one of my goals.

Ullock Pike, Long Side, Carl Side

Well, we’ve arrived in the Lake District for our holiday. We got here at about 2pm and met the lady that we’re renting our cottage from. It is absolutely amazing, so cosy and clean, just like home from home. It’s also perfect for Molly as we can use the main houses utility room (which backs onto their house and our cottage) to wash Molly’s paws and dry her off if she gets really dirty. Plus we can put any dirty, wet clothes in their to dry and keep our boots in there as well.

As we got here so early, we decided to go for a walk seen as the weather was so nice. Niki picked a walk from the OS map and decided to go for Ullock Pike and Long Side. We went down the road from our cottage and picked up the public footpath. My god it was so steep!!! It was pretty relentless too, just a very, very steep up…..constantly!

We eventually veered right onto another path to head towards Ullock Pike itself. Here the wind picked up dramatically and I started to wonder if we should continue, but we pressed on with a view to reassessing further up. The path itself consisted of some scrambling up some small rock faces but Molly seemed to manage fine. At one point we thought we were near to the top, but when we reached the peak we realised that there was still a small climb to go. When we got to the top, quite strangely the wind subsided which I couldn’t really understand.

Then we saw Long Side with its small ridge path and I must admit I was a bit nervous about taking the path in such strong winds. But as we actually got on the path it wasn’t as narrow and nerve racking as it appeared from a distance. We soon got to the cairn of Long Side and popped a stone on each. At this point in time we realised how close we were to Carl Side (we could see it in the distance and it really wasn’t very far) so we decided to carry on.

We went walked up the grassy slope to Carl Side and the wind was absolutely horrendous. We could literally lean into the wind, so we took a few pictures and quickly made our way back towards Long Side to try and get out of the wind.




We followed exactly the same path back as we had taken on the way there, and I wasn’t sure if it was just because I was more tired but the wind just seemed so much worse. A slow steady trek back with a stop on the way to eat a banana and we reached the road again in about an hour.

Molly absolutely loved it. In fact the windier and the steeper it is, I think the more she enjoys it.

We also thoroughly enjoyed our first walk of our holiday. We’re finally here and making the most of this beautiful scenery.

The Ascent of Whernside From Ribblehead

Total distance 14 miles - 6.5 hours
We are doing the Yorkshire 3 Peaks Challenge in June with our friends Scott and Helen. So we are making sure that we walk as much as possible, so we're ready to walk 26 miles in 12 hours. Prior to the walk in June, we're also walking the 3 Peaks route in 3 sections to make sure that we know the correct route to save time checking maps on the day.

Most of these routes already appear in Wainwrights "Walks in the Limestone Country" books anyway.

We have already done Horton-in Ribbledale to Pen-y-Ghent over the boggy marsh ground back to the main road and then back to Horton. We did this about a month ago before I started keeping a blog of our walks.

Yesterday we did the second part of the route. Ribblehead, to Whernside back down to Ribblehead.

I was particularly worried about this leg of the challenge because I'd read previously that the scramble up the side of Whernside was particularly steep and it was a real "scramble" to the top. I'd also read about the route in Wainwrights book under walk 23.

However, I decided to follow the "official route" which is detailed on a website called merseyventure. These people take bookings for groups to take them round the 3 Peaks challenge so I thought it was a pretty safe bet to use this as a good route to follow.

We set off from Ribblehead and walked to the inn then took the footpath off down by the side of the Ribblehead viaduct. The weather was pretty terrible at this point in time.

We then followed the footpath to blea moor sidings and signal box, at this point in time we were supposed to cross the railway using a "well trodden footpath that isn't shown as a right of way on OS maps", well we couldn't find such a path, so after quite a while looking for it, we decided to carry on the footpath by the side of the railway. The footpath crossed the railway via an aquaduct. We then followed the path which by now was heading upwards, however, when it got to a signpost that pointed towards the top of Whernside, we decided that this didn't seem to follow the instructions i.e. "not shown as a right of way on OS maps". On our map this was clearly shown as a footpath, and was infact the path that we followed to the top of Whernside on New Years Day from Dent.

So we decided to track the path back (that was the whole reason for our trip i.e. to make sure we had the exact route for the 3 Peaks walk so we weren't messing about on the day). So we got back to blea moor sidings and signal box, crossed the railway via another bridge and followed the river trying to find a "well trodden path", but we couldn't find anything. We had now walked 6 miles and not really got very far at all, but on the good side the weather had got quite a bit better.

Just as we were about to give up looking for the path and just follow the main path towards the top that we had been following earlier, we decided to look at the co-ordinates listed on the mersey venture website. MY GOD, THEY FOLLOWED THE SAME BLOOMING PATH THAT WE HAD BEEN ON I.E. THE MAIN BLOOMING PATH!! LISTED ON OS MAPS!!

So we set off back up the path again! By now the rain had started, but we carried on heading towards the top. The rain then started coming sideways and it was stinging our faces. Scott and Molly seemed to be unfazed by the whole thing and went on up ahead, whilst Helen, Niki and I took it slowly with a few stops to catch our breath.

We eventually got to the top but we were all by now wet and cold, we headed straight back down again. The decsent via this route is pretty "hairy" quite steep steps that you have to take very carefully. We passed some people who were doing the 3 Peaks that day!!! My god we were wet and miserable but to have already done Pen-y-Ghent and Whernside and still to have to do Inglebrough in the sideways cold rain, I really didn't envy them.

When we got to the farm at the bottom, Helen started to look worse for wear. We headed on the path towards the Hill Inn, but we thought it may be about 2 miles. Helen got her head down and didn't speak to anybody, she was in the zone and had to get back asap.

When we hit the road at the Inn, we still had to get back to the first Inn we passed on the way, then back to the car (another 2 miles?) On the road me and Niki got into quite a pace and Scott and Helen dropped back a bit. The further we walked the more we lost sight of them. But we thought if we once stopped we'd never start again. Plus we were cold and wet. If we got back to the car we could drive back to get the other two.

We eventually got to the car, got our wet clothes off and started driving back. When we saw Scott by himself, we thought he'd left Helen in the pub to sort herself out with a glass of wine. However, he told us that she'd got sat in front of the fire and couldn't stop shivering so the landlady told her to get upstairs and get a bath!!! So we took Scott back to the pub where he waited inside for Helen. We waited in the car with a very wet dirty Molly (she'd have never been allowed in the pub) with the engine running to get warm. A dry clean Helen and a wet cold Scott, came out about 20 minutes later and off we went home.

A long wet day, a 9 mile walk turned into about a 14 miles walk. We're goint to check in an official route guide to see if we followed the actual 3 Peaks route, or if we still need to find that infamous footpath.